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Why go?
Cheap, Beautiful, filled with backpackers, safe, and plenty of options
Utila, Honduras is a (scuba-diving) backpacker’s dream . A small tropical island nearly surrounded by reefs (2nd largest in the world), a legendary nightlife, and one of the highest concentrations of dive shops on the planet, each with a hostel attached. The diving is majestic, the people are fantastic, the parties are prodigious, and every morning you wake up early to dive and repeat it all over again. It’s glorious.
Utila also is consistently one of the cheapest places in the world to receive a diving certification of any kind. Most dive shops start out Open Water Certification at around $230 or so. It’s a mecca for travelers in the region, everyone you run into is coming back from Sunday Funday in Nicaragua, Antigua in Guatemala, or somewhere in between. GO. You will be immensely happy you did.
Before you go:
Choose which dive shop you want to use, email them ahead of time to be sure they have room to accommodate you for both lodging and classes on the dates you’ll be there.
Research your transportation options to get to the island, as I discuss in a following section, you will be piecing together planes, buses, taxis and a ferry schedule, so having bus companies etc… known ahead of time will save you trouble.
Be sure to bring:
Bathing suit, fully functioning liver.
Getting there:
Getting to and from Utila is always a little tricky, but well worth it. Flights, boat, and bus schedules inevitably do not line up conveniently, and you are almost guaranteed to find yourself spending a night in either San Pedro Sula or La Ceiba before you arrive. Thus you usually have to allot for two travel days if arriving from the states or Europe to actually get to the island. Fortunately, it can be done, here’s an example of what a typical itinerary for getting to Utila will consist of:
- Flight into San Pedro Sula (SAP)
- Catch a shuttle from the airport to the San Pedro Sula Bus Station bus station (there are several shuttles, Hedman Alas is reliable)
- Get on a bus to La Ceiba at the station (there are several, Hedman Alas and is reliable)
- Get off at La Ceiba, share a taxi to your hotel, sleep
- Wake up, take a Taxi from your hotel to the ferry landing
- Get on the ferry to Utila
Annnd you’re there. For anyone on an extended backpacking trip, this will be normal, but for those just flying down for a week, it may seem excessive. No worries, it’s well worth it.
If you have to spend a night in San Pedro Sula either on your way to Utila or during your return journey, I highly recommend Dos Molinos B&B.
If you contact them ahead of time they will pick you up from the bus station/airport. It’s a family that runs it and the kids are hilarious. Then when you leave, they’ll drive you to the airport / bus station. Tips for both journeys is always appreciated.
What to do when you get there:
Scuba… duh.
And in addition to the world-class diving in warm, turquoise-blue waters among coral reefs teeming with life, there are tons of other water sports available and even a world-class freediving school.
Try to level up in diving. Went to Utila just to get your Open Water Cert? Stick around two more days for the Advanced Open Water! Have an open itinerary? Go from zero to hero and become a Divemaster. Just takes 6-8 weeks for some. Wondering what to do with your life? Just don’t leave…. It’s amazing how long you can last on $0.50 tequila and $1.50 empanadas.
If you have time, I highly recommend doing a minimum of Open Water and Advanced Open Water. It’s only two more days to get the added certification, and you won’t want to leave yet anyway. If you don’t have time to stick around for Divemaster but still want to learn more, most shops offer other classes like Rescue Diver and Dive Photographer. Check some scuba shop websites and check out the options.
Whalesharks! If you plan your trip for end of February through April, you increase your chances of seeing Whalesharks. But fortunately, Utila is also one of the few places in the world where you can possibly see a Whaleshark year-round. In addition to those lumbering beasts, you’ll see hundreds of species of coral, tropical fish, sea turtles, barracuda, dolphins, and more. For how much you’re paying, it’s an absolute steal. And you’ll fall in
love with the ocean.
And if that’s not enough, you can always bike around, rent a moped for some island exploration, kick back and relax by the water, take part in a booze cruise, play volleyball, or just immerse yourself in the endless nightlife. One night melds into the next, so be careful… For some more details on all of that, read on.
Recommended Scuba Places / Hostels:
This category is combined since nearly all the Dive shops on Utila offer scuba packages along with lodging. Each scuba shops has their advantages and unique awesomeness, these below are just based on my brief experience.
Underwater Vision : My highest recommendation.
High quality instructors, fantastic accommodations (free of charge as long as you are enrolled in a diving course. They have singles, doubles, and dorm style lodging available), affordable on-site bar/restaurant, beautiful waterfront area with hammocks, chairs, beach volleyball and more…. You’ll love this place. Definitely the most social atmosphere of all the options. And the staff are an eclectic, fun-loving bunch.
Alton’s Dive Center : Next door to Underwater vision, very similar characteristics. Also has a “Booze Cruise” which they put on weekly. Good social atmosphere as well.
Utila Dive Center: Largest dive center on the island and also one of the busiest, award-winning, great quality instructors.
College of Diving: Bay Islands : Large and well-established. Contains the island’s only Hyperbaric Chamber and full dive-oriented medical center. A bit more expensive, but you get what you pay for, very well-maintained and reputable.
Be sure to see:
Treetanic. This is one of those places where you’ll have trouble picking the best picture and you’ll never forget. … Since 1998, Expat owners Neil and Julia have been working and creating this masterpiece in his backyard, which now includes a full bar, an Airbnb-rentable treehouse and dozens of hidden platforms and passageways seemingly decorated by a drunk Willy Wonka.
Be sure to go during the day to fully explore and take pictures… then… return at night to party. Wednesday is often a solid bet. Drinking and socializing in the setting of a fantasy novel is just as awesome as you think.
A search online will show you all you need to see to make you want to go. It is regularly rated as one of the best bars in the Americas.
Definitely experience (in addition to scuba):
The Nightlife. There are many reasons why people go to Utila and never leave, but this just may be the biggest (after diving). On most nights the 1 mile-long main road pulsates with delirious bacchanalia. All The hostels and scuba shops empty out to the bars and restaurants, and it’s on.
And of course, many hostels / scuba shops have their own in-house bars too which are excellent for a low-key night, or just getting started for the marathon ahead… that is, unless you teach 8 South Africans the game of Slap-Cup… well… Then you might bring the party there… But I digress… In summary, revel in the glory that is Utila at night and truly discover why the Three Lies of Utila are:
I love you
I’m never drinking again
I’m leaving tomorrow
Bars:
There are many more, these are just some highlights.
Rehab: Out on the water, frequent live music, easy-to-complete drink-challenge. Solid spot to take in a sunset with some brews.
Skid Row’s: A dive bar with a good reputation. Puts clothing on the backs of half the backpackers that come through the island with their slightly-harder-to-complete drink-challenge. A good, raucous time.
Tranquila: One of the largest bars in island, right on the ocean with an upper-deck seating area over the water to get away from the noise. Cheap Tequila.
Treetanic: Dr. Seuss land meets drinking. That’s what this place is. See more on this destination below, but it is also a great bar.
Booze Cruise: Not really a bar, but there is one onboard. There are several outfits that run “Booze Cruises” in Utila, Alton’s Dive Center is well-known for theirs.
Remember, two beers by land is one by sea.
Leaving there:
Pointless entry, you won’t…
But if you do, it’ll follow much the same itinerary as when you arrived, just in reverse.
Leventeia 